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  • 143 KB
  • 12 sty 13 4:21
Although the 1920s and 1930s are often lumped together as the period “between the wars,” the two decades were quite different in character and styles of dress varied greatly.
The 1920s were the Jazz Age, a period of escapism after the horrors of World War I. The younger generation, especially, turned their backs on the formality and dark, buttoned-up clothing of the previous century. On both sides of the Atlantic, life was now fun, one seemingly endless party. With Europe still recovering from the war and repaying debts, the United States took the lead in new technology. Mass manufacturing made consumer goods cheaper and more accessible. New fabrics seemed to be invented every week - rayon, known as “art silk,” nylon, and many more.
In 1929, the Wall Street stock market crash brought the age of reckless partying to an abrupt end. The 1930s began with a widespread economic depression and unemployment and ended with the world at war again. It was a sober period, albeit with welcome touches of glamour for some.
This text brings together some of the most popular styles and dominant trends of the 1920s and 1930s and demonstrates how to achieve the look - from free-spirited flapper to Clark Gable look-alike. Some period pieces can still be found in thrift shops and secondhand sales. Others can be tracked down via the Internet, where auction sites often have vintage pieces selling for low prices. Other items you can make quite simply. Since the 1970s, there have been several revivals of elements of 1920s and 1930s fashions, and these more modern pieces make acceptable substitutes.

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Following the Second World War, fashion became available to a wider population for the first time as mass-production clothing filled stores and televisions and other media outlets relayed what the rich and famous wore on a daily basis. With this increase in popular culture consumption came an increase in consumer consumption, and styles and fashions changed quickly in the 1950s and 1960s. This colorful, captivating volume details how men and women dressed in their daily lives and for special occasions. Engaging sidebars and ample full-color photographs and illustrations give readers an accurate, detailed picture of the styles that were all the rage in post-war America and the years beyond. Chapters of this title include: A New Era; Women's Day Wear; Men's Day Wear; Women's Formal and Evening Dress; Men's Formal and Evening Dress; Time Off - Leisure Wear; Work Wear and Uniforms; and, Completing the Look.

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  • 12 sty 13 4:21
On January 20, 1981, the presidential candidate for the Republican Party, former movie actor Ronald Reagan, was sworn in as the fortieth president of the United States. Under Reagan, the country underwent a political and economic revolution characterized by deregulation (the lessening of government controls over the banking and industrial sectors) and large tax cuts. This political mood corresponded exactly to that of the then prime minister of Britain, Conservative Party leader Margaret Thatcher.
It may seem strange to preface a book on costume with a discussion about politics, but the way people dress is deeply influenced by the political climate in which they live. While liberal governments tend to inspire more adventurous, artistic styles of clothing, conservative governments, with their emphasis on the pre-eminence of the private sector, often produce fashions that reflect a sober, businesslike conformity.
This book examines the main costume and fashion trends in the United States and Europe during the 1980s and 1990s by drawing on the styles promoted by fashion designers and store catalogs and featured in movies and television programs of the time. It examines the world of couture - evident in fashion magazines such as Vogue and social picture magazines such as People - and, at the other end of the spectrum, the “street,” where young people reflected popular culture by dressing in styles they created themselves. Theater and fashion students, re-enactors, and those interested in amateur dramatics will find inspiration here - whether costuming a group of 1980s “power dressers” or a 1990s “grunge” band.

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  • 12 sty 13 4:21
As the 2000 census resoundingly demonstrated, the Anglo-Protestant ethnic core of the United States has all but dissolved. In a country founded and settled by their ancestors, British Protestants now make up less than a fifth of the population. This demographic shift has spawned a "culture war" within white America. While liberals seek to diversify society toward a cosmopolitan endpoint, some conservatives strive to maintain an American ethno-national identity. Eric Kaufmann traces the roots of this culture war from the rise of WASP America after the Revolution to its fall in the 1960s, when social institutions finally began to reflect the nation's ethnic composition.
Kaufmann begins his account shortly after independence, when white Protestants with an Anglo-Saxon myth of descent established themselves as the dominant American ethnic group. But from the late 1890s to the 1930s, liberal and cosmopolitan ideological currents within white Anglo-Saxon Protestant America mounted a powerful challenge to WASP hegemony. This struggle against ethnic dominance was mounted not by subaltern immigrant groups but by Anglo-Saxon reformers, notably Jane Addams and John Dewey. It gathered social force by the 1920s, struggling against WASP dominance and achieving institutional breakthrough in the late 1960s, when America truly began to integrate ethnic minorities into mainstream culture.

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  • 12 sty 13 4:21
Gossips, Gorgons & Crones is the first comprehensive analysis of nuclear-age culture and the accompanying return of female Powers. Based in feminist, pre-patriarchal, and Native American philosophies, this book provides a biting critique of patriarchal practices, myths, and values, including family values.

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  • 135 KB
  • 12 sty 13 4:21
Several decades after her death in 1968, Helen Keller remains one of the most widely recognized women of the twentieth century. But the fascinating story of her vivid political life—particularly her interest in radicalism and anti-capitalist activism—has been largely overwhelmed by the sentimentalized story of her as a young deaf-blind girl.
Keller had many lives indeed. Best known for her advocacy on behalf of the blind, she was also a member of the socialist party, an advocate of women's suffrage, a defender of the radical International Workers of the World, and a supporter of birth control—and she served as one of the nation's most effective but unofficial international ambassadors. In spite of all her political work, though, Keller rarely explored the political dimensions of disability, adopting beliefs that were often seen as conservative, patronizing, and occasionally repugnant. Under the wing of Alexander Graham Bell, a controversial figure in the deaf community who promoted lip-reading over sign language, Keller became a proponent of oralism, thereby alienating herself from others in the deaf community who believed that a rich deaf culture was possible through sign language. But only by distancing herself from the deaf community was she able to maintain a public image as a one-of-a-kind miracle.
Using analytic tools and new sources, Kim E. Nielsen's political biography of Helen Keller has many lives, teasing out the motivations for and implications of her political and personal revolutions to reveal a more complex and intriguing woman than the Helen Keller we thought we knew.

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Enslaved Africans and their descendants comprised a significant portion of colonial Virginia populations, with most living on rural slave quarters adjacent to the agricultural fields in which they labored. Archaeological excavations into these home sites have provided unique windows into the daily lifeways and culture of these early inhabitants.
A common characteristic of Virginia slave quarters is the presence of subfloor pits beneath the houses. The most common explanations of the functions of these pits are as storage places for personal belongings or root vegetables, and some contextual and ethnohistoric data suggest they may have served as West Africa-style shrines. Through excavations of 103 subfloor pits dating from the 17th through mid-19th centuries, Samford reveals a wealth of data including shape, location, surface area, and depth, as well as contents and patterns of related feature placement. Archaeology reveals the material circumstances of slaves’ lives, which in turn opens the door to illuminating other aspects of life: spirituality, symbolic meanings assigned to material goods, social life, individual and group agency, and acts of resistance and accommodation. Analysis of the artifact assemblages allows the development of hypotheses about how West African, possibly Igbo, cultural traditions were maintained and transformed in the Virginia Chesapeake.

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  • 12 sty 13 4:21
Having spent 30 weeks on the New York Times bestseller list, Ralph Martin’s Jennie: The Life of Lady Randolf Churchill is the story of a girl from Brooklyn who became the toast of British society.

Jennie, the most fascinating and desirable woman of her age, was once the wife of Lord Randolph Churchill, and raised a son-Winston Churchill-who saved England from the Nazi onslaught with the only weapons he possessed-his magnificent oratory and his courage. Her paramours included King Edward VII of England and King Milan of Serbia. She later married two men, each 20 years her junior. A beautiful rebel, she lived and loved with an honesty that made her the toast-and scandal-of two continents.

“Physically beautiful, volatile, brainy, outgoing, with enormous vitality . . . Jennie well into her middle age hypnotized men younger than her sons. Down the ages men and women of wealth and secure social station have always flouted society and Jennie was one of their number.”
-New York Times

“Not only Jennie, but the world in which she lived, dance before the reader in magnificent display. . . . Written with such candor that one is spellbound . . . The best and most readable account possible of this fascinating woman”
-Book World

“The most vivid, the most detailed of biographies . . . a rich background of the late Victorian and Edwardian eras that saw Britain at the high noon of empire . . . a heroine of charm, brilliance and beauty.”
-New York Post

“Always absorbing . . . bright snatches of political gossip, social history and boudoir skullduggery.”
-Newsweek

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A comparative history of single women's independent migration to the textile cities of Preston, England; Lowell, Massachusetts; and Paisley, Scotland.
In the nineteenth-century mill towns of Preston, England; Lowell, Massachusetts; and Paisley, Scotland, there were specific demands for migrant and female labor, and potential employers provided the necessary respectable conditions in order to attract them. Using individual accounts, this innovative and comparative study examines the migrants' lives by addressing their reasons for migration, their relationship to their families, the roles they played in the cities to which they moved, and the dangers they met as a result of their youth, gender, and separation from family. Gordon details both the similarities and differences in the women’s migration experiences, and somewhat surprisingly concludes that they became financially independent, rather than primarily contributors to a family economy.

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The booklet covers: Nomenclature of Parts, Directions for Operating the Gun, Ammunition and Ballistics, General Description of Gun and Operating Principles, Directions for Dismounting and Assembling, Directions for Care and Preservation, Data, and Carrying Equipment and Accessories. Fully illustrated with photos and illustrations, this is an invaluable source of information for any military historian, collector, or re-enactor.

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The atomic bombs dropped on Hiroshima and Nagasaki in August of 1945 unleashed a force as mysterious as it was deadly--radioactivity. In 1946, the United States government created the Atomic Bomb Casualty Commission (ABCC) to serve as a permanent agency in Japan with the official mission of studying the medical effects of radiation on the survivors. The next ten years saw the ABCC's most intensive research on the genetic effects of radiation, and up until 1974 the ABCC scientists published papers on the effects of radiation on aging, life span, fertility, and disease.
Suffering Made Real is the first comprehensive history of the ABCC's research on how radiation affected the survivors of the atomic bomb. Arguing that Cold War politics and cultural values fundamentally shaped the work of the ABCC, M. Susan Lindee tells the compelling story of a project that raised disturbing questions about the ethical implications of using human subjects in scientific research. How did the politics of the emerging Cold War affect the scientists' biomedical research and findings? How did the ABCC document and publicly present the effects of radiation? Why did the ABCC refuse to provide medical treatment to the survivors? Through a detailed examination of ABCC policies, archival materials, the minutes of committee meetings, newspaper accounts, and interviews with ABCC scientists, Lindee explores how political and cultural interests were reflected in the day-to-day operations of this controversial research program.
Set against a period of conflicting views of nuclear weapons and nuclear power, Suffering Made Real follows the course of a politically charged research program and reveals in detail how politics and cultural values can shape the conduct, results, and uses of science.

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  • 12 sty 13 4:21
Showcasing superlative architecture in some of the most stunning and remote areas of the South American coastline, Beach Houses of South America , is destined to inspire and delight. A number of renowned Latin American architects have chosen the continent's breathtakingly diverse coastline as a backdrop for their work, and their canvases range from the stark, arid locations to lusciously tropical settings. Within these beautiful landscapes, each project displays the architect's ability to strike a balance between nature and dwelling place, as well as their innate sense of what makes South American beach houses culturally unique. Many houses offer a new slant on an age-old culture, or are deeply influenced by their natural surroundings their architects always mindful of working in a fragile environment. There are simple, practical homes for families and friends and lavish seaside weekenders, all of which share one thing in common as beach houses they are also a sanctuary in which to relax and unwind.

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Historians of the Civil Rights era typically treat the key events of the 1950s Brown v. Board of Education, sit-ins, bus boycotts, and marches--as a revolutionary social upheaval that upended a rigid caste system. While the 1950s was a watershed era in Southern and civil rights history, the tendency has been to paint the preceding Jim Crow era as a brutal system that featured none of the progressive reform impulses so apparent at the federal level and in the North. As Kimberley Johnson shows in this pathbreaking reappraisal of the Jim Crow era, this argument is too simplistic, and is true to neither the 1950s nor the long era of Jim Crow that finally solidified in 1910. Focusing on the political development of the South between 1910 and 1954, Johnson considers the genuine efforts by white and black progressives to reform the system without destroying it. These reformers assumed that the system was there to stay, and therefore felt that they had to work within it in order to modernize the South. Consequently, white progressives tried to install a better--meaning more equitable--separate-but-equal system, and elite black reformers focused on ameliorative (rather than confrontational) solutions that would improve the lives of African Americans. Johnson concentrates on local and state reform efforts throughout the South in areas like schooling, housing, and labor. Many of the reforms made a difference, but they had the ironic impact of generating more demand for social change among blacks. She is able to show how demands slowly rose over time, and how the system laid the seeds of its own destruction. The reformers' commitment to a system that was less unequal--albeit not truly equal--and more like the North led to significant policy changes over time. As Johnson powerfully demonstrates, our lack of knowledge about the cumulative policy transformations resulting from the Jim Crow reform impulse impoverishes our understanding of the Civil Rights revolution. Reforming Jim Crow rectifies that.

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As awareness of the process of globalization grows and the study of its effects becomes increasingly important to governments and businesses (as well as to a sizable opposition), the need for historical understanding also increases. Despite the importance of the topic, few attempts have been made to present a long-term economic analysis of the phenomenon, one that frames the issue by examining its place in the long history of international integration.
This volume collects eleven papers doing exactly that and more. The first group of essays explores how the process of globalization can be measured in terms of the long-term integration of different markets-from the markets for goods and commodities to those for labor and capital, and from the sixteenth century to the present. The second set of contributions places this knowledge in a wider context, examining some of the trends and questions that have emerged as markets converge and diverge: the roles of technology and geography are both considered, along with the controversial issues of globalization's effects on inequality and social justice and the roles of political institutions in responding to them. The final group of essays addresses the international financial systems that play such a large part in guiding the process of globalization, considering the influence of exchange rate regimes, financial development, financial crises, and the architecture of the international financial system itself.
This volume reveals a much larger picture of the process of globalization, one that stretches from the establishment of a global economic system during the nineteenth century through the disruptions of two world wars and the Great Depression into the present day. The keen analysis, insight, and wisdom in this volume will have something to offer a wide range of readers interested in this important issue.

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  • 12 sty 13 4:21
In The Kennedys Amidst the Gathering Storm, Will Swift presents a fresh, empathetic interpre­tation of the ambassadorship of Joseph Kennedy and explores the intricate, often shifting relation­ships among Kennedy, Chamberlain, Churchill, and, of course, Roosevelt.
Arriving in London in early 1938, the Irish-Catholic Kennedys were welcomed by politicians, aristocrats, and intellectuals, all eager to court America. They finally appeared to have overcome their lifelong status as outsiders. From 1938 to 1940, the Kennedys crystallized their identity as protagonists on the world stage, making public the competitive and clannish intrafamily dynamics that would fuel their mythic rise to power. They all learned from their father's successes—and failures. The older children—Joe Jr., Jack, and Kathleen—took an active part in England's glittering, "last fling before the bombs fall" society, but all nine children charmed, their every move chronicled by the British and American media. John F. Kennedy's path to the White House began in London. As his father's political fortunes dimmed, Jack published a best-selling book and his star rose.
Drawing on recently released Kennedy family archives, Joseph P. Kennedy's private papers, and using rare photographs of English society and the photogenic Kennedy clan, Dr. Swift, with penetrating psychological insight, brings to life this fascinating family during a dramatic one thousand day period.

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The collective consciousness of World War II revolved around the virtues of bravery, sacrifice, and commitment. Members of "The Greatest Generation" toed political and social lines in hopes of winning the war. They fell into lockstep, asking very few questions, and breaking few social and sexual mores. Or did they? In fact, World War II was--like all wars--a time of sexual experimentation and a general loosening of morals. It was a time of conflicting emotions and conflicting messages, a time of great sacrifice, and a time of discovery, when some groups, especially woman, experienced a relaxing of bonds that had kept them in check. Thanks For The Memories: Love, Sex, and World War IIfs the true story of how the World War II generation responded to the passions of war, and how those passions changed their lives-and the relationships between the sexes-forever. But this book is more than that. As Jane Mersky Leder writes, "Thanks for the Memories opens the hearts and memories of a generation that is dying, by one estimate, at the rate of more than 1,000 a day." It exposes the sexual and romantic escapades of "The Greatest Generation" and underscores how those four war years revolutionized relationships (including those between gays), and how it helped set the stage for the second wave of the women's liberation movement. "Many who never thought their stories mattered," Leder writes, "now feel the pull of limited time, and the importance of leaving an accurate account for their children and grandchildren of what it was like to be a young man or young woman during World War II. This is their collective story.

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